Aligoté - Burgundy’s understated star
'Aligoté is a white grape variety grown in Burgundy, believed to be a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais. This vigorous grape variety buds early and is hardy, thriving particularly well on slopes where it consistently yields 50 to 70 hectoliters per hectare. However, in flat areas, these yields can triple (as seen in Romania). In the past, there used to be a distinction between a "green" Aligoté, which was highly productive, and a "red" Aligoté, less fertile but with reddish-hued shoots. These differences were merely variations among clones.'
Aligoté, now a highly esteemed grape variety in Burgundy, is renowned for its unique characteristics that intricately reflect the specific terroir in which it thrives. It embodies a genuine representation of the region's identity.
Aligoté is the second most prominent white grape variety in Burgundy, trailing only behind Chardonnay. However, it currently encompasses just 6% of the region's vineyards, despite originating from the Burgundy region .
Aligoté was once cultivated alongside Chardonnay on the finest slopes. As a significant part of Burgundy's viticultural heritage, it has been a staple in the region for over two centuries. However, after the 19th-century phylloxera crisis swept through Europe, Burgundian winegrowers chose to replant Chardonnay vines on the prime hillsides and terroirs. Chardonnay was in vogue, easier to cultivate, and more financially viable than Aligoté. Consequently, Aligoté vineyards were relocated to the plains, areas with less favorable terroir characterized by fertile soil and inadequate drainage. However recognition of Aligoté's distinct qualities and its ability to provide a fresh perspective on Burgundian wines is growing as a new generation of vignerons replant this variety on prime terroir.
An exceptional characteristic of Aligoté is its dynamic nature. Even during warmer growing seasons, Aligoté maintains its natural acidity, setting it apart from other grape varieties. This attribute makes it a highly desired choice among winemakers who prioritize the intrinsic balance it brings to their wines. Additionally, Aligoté exhibits remarkable adaptability to diverse winemaking techniques. Vignerons have the opportunity to experiment with more freedom, employing approaches such as skin maceration and barrel ageing, reminiscent of the methods commonly used with Chardonnay wines. This versatility adds to its allure, enabling it to be fashioned into sparkling or oxidative styles, which underscores its remarkable flexibility.
In the current context marked by economic and climatic challenges, Aligoté effectively addresses the existing demand. Its affordability and contemporary attributes cater to the preferences of today's consumers. With its vibrant personality, concentrated flavors, and impressive strength, Aligoté is gaining significant attention. This is not a passing trend; instead, Aligoté is positioned to firmly establish itself alongside the renowned Chardonnay as a main player.
By cultivating Aligoté vines in superior vineyards, controlling yields, and vinifying with precision akin to Premier Cru Chardonnay, the potential for exceptional wines is evident. This is the message put forth by Les Aligoteurs, an association formed in 2018. Comprising 60 winemakers, Les Aligoteurs, established by chef Philippe Delacourcelle and winemakers Sylvain Pataille, Laurent Fournier, Pablo Chevrot, Jérôme Galeyrand, Manuel Olivier, Anne Morey, and Nicolas Faure, collaborates to promote and safeguard Aligoté. Their mission revolves around endorsing top-quality Aligoté wines crafted by skilled winemakers.
Aligoté holds a central position within the world of Burgundy wines . Our affinity for Aligoté began in 2018, during the inaugural festival of Les Aligoteurs in Burgundy, where we had the chance to sample countless bottles of this vibrant grape variety. It became evident that in the hands of adept and attentive vignerons, Aligoté wines could possess character, complexity, intensity, and an irresistible taste. This revelation prompted our mission: to share this lesser-known grape with our friends in the UK. Thus, Déjà Bu was founded and grew, and the appreciation for Aligoté expanded. Presently, we represent an entire collection of wines that resonate with us – products from intriguing locations and grape varieties, crafted by the skillful and thoughtful winemakers we encountered during our journeys in France.